Rekindling Interest in African Vegetables

Vegetables consumed in Eastern Africa include familiar names - carrots, kale and cabbage – but these are historically not part of the continent’s diet. Western favorites have at times overshadowed the region’s gloriously-named indigenous vegetables, including cowpea leaves, spider flower and slenderleaf.

These greens are part of Africa’s heritage and are thought to pack a potent punch, with medicinal, immune-boosting and nutritional properties. They are better suited to growing in the local soil, have little need for fertilisers or pesticides, and are more resilient to the ravages of climate change.

The traditional, leafy vegetables have, in the past, been looked down on; sometimes considered old-fashioned and as ‘poor man’s food’. Now the plants, with their high levels of roughage, zinc, iron, calcium, manganese and Vitamin A, are seen as a way of building food security, as well as a chance to celebrate a rich cultural tradition.

For these reasons, there has been a resurgence in the vegetables’ popularity. A recent report from Fairtrade Africa and Christian Aid highlighted the potential demand for Fairtrade certified traditional vegetables in the Kenyan market.

Fairtrade International recently established the first Fairtrade prices for indigenous African vegetables and it’s hoped this will be an opportunity to protect and rekindle interest in these plants, further boosting their reputation and consumption, first in Kenya, and then other countries in the region.

The announcement forms part of Fairtrade International’s strategy to increase the trade in Fairtrade goods within the emerging markets of Africa, Latin America and Asia; all thought to have great potential for sales. The FAIRTRADE Mark can be increasingly found on produce that is grown and consumed within these regions, as well as on produce which is exported to Europe, North America and regions.

These new prices will help open up the Kenyan market for Fairtrade farmers there – a model the Fairtrade movement hopes to see with more regularity as India, South Africa and other countries increase their sales. There are also nascent Fairtrade movements in Brazil, Argentina, India and The Philippines.

Those who grow traditional vegetables tend to be poor and disadvantaged women, often farming less than half a hectare, in vulnerable communities, and this price mechanism will benefit them, increasing their income and their role within their farming groups.

There is growing demand in Nairobi from health-conscious consumers for specialized restaurants that serve healthy, ethnic foods. African leafy vegetables are perfect ingredients for this market. AMAICA, a small but significant restaurant chain, buys its cowpea leaves, spider plant and slenderleaf from groups of women growers and is interested in working with Fairtrade to help certify these groups. Certification will empower the women and ensure a fair price for their work. AMAICA will also be certified as a trader and become the first in the region to serve Fairtrade certified meals.

"AMAICA is pleased to be at the forefront of promoting these vegetables which are so nutritious and so much at the heart of African tradition,” explains Pamela Muyeshi. “We are delighted to be working with Fairtrade in securing a guaranteed fair price for the women who grow them."

AMAICA distributes the vegetables to its eateries in Nairobi, including its new outlet at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, where they are used in various dishes. The restaurant chain has built a reputation as a location for authentic, traditional meals and other branches will soon be opened outside the capital. Other restaurant chains are expected to follow AMAICA’s lead and serve the Fairtrade greens. The AMAICA group, together with six other restaurants, are estimated to use more than 30,000kg of traditional vegetables every month.

Frank Olok of Fairtrade Africa, the Fairtrade producer network for Africa and the Middle East, says the new vegetable prices are significant for Fairtrade sales within Kenya.
“This will go a long way to increase and diversify market opportunities for Fairtrade Africa members, by promoting south-to-south markets,” he says. “We expect more producers to start selling their traditional African vegetables on Fairtrade terms.”

The first National Fairtrade Organisation in a producer country was set up in South Africa five years ago. South Africa is currently the fastest growing Fairtrade market. Fairtrade Marketing Organisation of East Africa (FMOEA) is the second organization to launch on the continent. It opened its doors in May 2013 and currently promotes Fairtrade products in Kenya. It will be targeting other countries in eastern Africa in the future.

Fairtrade is thought to be effective in parts of the world where the inequalities within a society are obvious for local consumers to see. It can also be a real boost to farmers to see their produce for sale locally, bearing the FAIRTRADE Mark.

“Fairtrade certified producers in Africa are keen to expand these markets for Fairtrade products,” adds Frank. “We enthusiastically welcome south-to-south trade.”


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